The Vault Overview | Preface by Miss Layla
The Vault started as a creative concept to explore the avenues of my olfactive imagination. Each scent was born from a memory of a person, place or thing. As I have followed other Perfumers over the years, I have learned more about the artistic process of making a perfume, especially in the fragrance industry. As a result, I have witnessed a lot of incredible formulations that have never come to fruition. For example, in a three-part BBC Documentary Series about Perfume , the preeminent and illustrious Jean-Claude Ellena has his assistant throw out fragrance compositions from his creative works that are, “in process.” A way of paring down, a refining procedure- if you will. As his assistant was removing the perfumes from the collection in his case, I was literally hopping up and down in a state of bewildered horror, exclaiming, “Oh my god! She’s just going to throw them out!? What if they’re amazing!?” I happen to be a little biased here, because I find Jean-Claude Ellena to be a sort of vicarious perfume teacher. I really appreciate the work of Ellena because he was the first person to teach me how to make perfume using aroma chemicals and natural raw materials. I would read his notes in his books, watch him in videos and begin to learn how to compose aromatic accords from singular molecules. In my findings, he was truly a pioneer in unveiling the, “magic” that makes perfume. He showed me how to make an impression of bitter orange by mixing sweet orange oil and indole molecule and how to create a lilac accord using, phenyl ethyl alcohol, helional, indole and essence of clove. Much like Ellena’s menagerie of fragrance works in progress, The Vault concepts work in the same fashion. They are olfactive illustrations, bottled memories that are the progression of a fragrance art piece. Similarly to art sketches on newsprint before turning into a masterpiece painting, these conceptual perfumes are kept and refined.
Since watching the perfume documentary series, I have decided to keep a lot of my fragrance sketches; giving them all category numbers and abbreviations as working titles. To my surprise, people liked them just as they were, which is why I started offering them for others to smell and capture just as I have; even if only for the purpose of experiencing the memory I am trying to covey. The Vault perfumes can function solely as the scent of a bottled memory, or as a fragrance to be worn, which is the beauty of this practice.
These compositions are very exclusive, which is why I keep a record of them. Below is a list of formulations for 2017-2018. I have limited quantities of each of the fragrances listed below. However, if these pique your interest, please ask for a sample in your order. I offer larger sizes should someone want to make one in a full bottle. I like to give these away whenever I meet new fragrance enthusiasts. Lastly, I want to mention that The Vault is ever expanding, like a collection of doodles in a notebook. I hope you enjoy. -L
Seaside with Sarah singing Harry Nilsson’s 1970’s novelty, “Coconut” song.
Featuring notes of: Lime, Coconut, Melon, Tuberose Absolute, Guava, Ylang Ylang of Comoros, Ginger Lily, Pineapple, Salt, Oud & Ambergris Tincture
Scotch Whiskey Accord, Black Spruce, Anise, Cistus, Ravensara, Peru Balsam, Tobacco Absolute, Peat Smoke, Vetiver, Leather & Cedarwood
Nights in the Canyon.
Rye Whiskey Accord, Tobacco Absolute, Rosewood, Frankincense, Peru Balsam, Coffee CO2, Sweet Myrrh, & Leather
Twisted Juniper, Lemongrass, Anise, Pink Peppercorn, Apple Blossom, Rosewood, Pear, Frangipani, Mint Tea, Carrot Seed, Galbanum, Violet Leaf Absolute, Blonde Woods, Orris & Leather
Kitchen Table Vase in Winter.
Geranium, Neroli, Bitter Orange Peel, Orange Nectar, Lily, Frangipani, Cardamom, Ginger, Cedar, Amber & Sandalwood Attar
Incense On The Record Stand.
Bergamot, Coriander, Geranium, Amber, Carnation Absolute, Leather, Vinyl, Tobacco, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Frankincense, Vanilla, Myrrh & Sandalwood
Tropical Breezes, Crystal Clear Seas.
Coconut Milk, Coconut Pulp, Salt, Tuberose Absolute, Ylang Ylang, Apricot Lactone, Sea Side Grasses, Driftwood Accord, Tonka Bean Absolute, Tahitian Vanilla, Hawaiian Sandalwood
A Twist on Geranium.
Pimento Berry, Peppermint, Anise, Geranium, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Lilac Accord, Australian Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedar, Benzoin, Frankincense & Musk
Blue Cypress, Cypress Leaf, Anise, Oakmoss, Lavender, Wormwood, Rosemary, Geranium, Sandalwood, Himalayan Cedar, Vetiver, Iso E Super, Elemi Resin
Citrus Groves & the Pacific Coast.
Grapefruit, Bergamot, Neroli, Petitgrain, Expressed California Orange, Salt, Litsea Cubeba, Cardamom, Rose, Magnolia, Ravensara, Aldehydes, Fresh Ocean Air, Botanical Musk, Amber
The Painted Desert at Sunset.
Citron, Green Tea Absolute, Desert Rose, Clove, Jonquille Absolute, Smoke, Juniper, Cade, Petitgrain, Cedar, Vetiver & Sandalwood
Mantis Is Hiding.
Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Tomato Leaf, Moss, Tree Sap, Juniper, Mimosa Absolute, Melon, Lemon, Atlas Cedar, Ambergris Tincture, Iso E Super, Amyris, Sweet Myrrh & Ambrette Seed
MTS218 | MTS118
Mantis Is Hiding.
(An Ongoing Mantis Study using the same components in different proportions)
Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Tomato Leaf, Juniper, Oakmoss, Mimosa Absolute, Melon, Lemon, Atlas Cedar, Ambergris Tincture, Iso E Super, Amyris, Sweet Myrrh Resin & Botanical Musk
Precious Woods & Patchouli Spice.
Amber, Tobacco Absolute, Bourbon Vanilla, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Coconut, Agarwood, Bourbon Vanilla, Birch Tar, Coriander, Lavender, Coffee & Musk
Amber, Tobacco Absolute, Bourbon Vanilla, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Almond, Clove, Tolu Balsam, Cistus, Immortal Flower, Cassia Bark, Plum, Smoke & Cedarwood
Rare & Precious Woods
(A fragrance created for the Biennial Scent Fair 2018)
Cedarwood, Orris, Amber, Papyrus, Angelica, Peru Balsam, Cassia, Benzoin, Wet Forest Accord, Australian Sandalwood, Tobacco, Agarwood, Oakmoss Absolute, Mysore Sandalwood & Sweet Myrrh
Bitter Orange, Juniper, Pink Pepper, Moss, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Coumarin, Amber, Rosewood, Ambrette Seed, Sandalwood, Suede Accord
Bergamot, Star Anise, Coriander, Juniper, Cedar, Amber, Orris Butter, Raspberry, Vetiver, Oud, Hay Absolute, Iris, Spikenard, Suede Accord, Beeswax Absolute
Cedar, Green Tea Absolute, Rosewood, New Caldonian Sandalwood, Geranium, Champaca Wood, Cacao, Lisylang, Anise, Violet Leaf, Clove Bud Absolute, Cistus, Suede Accord & Galbanum
Evening Thunder | Mountain Cabin Smells.
Rye Whiskey, Cigar Accord, Amber, Peru Balsam, Rosewood, Frankincense, Benzoin, Black Coffee Accord, Leather, Cade, Hay Absolute, Cedar, Wool blanket warmth
Woodshop & Old Friends.
Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Tobacco Absolute, Amber, Clove Bud Absolute, Rosewood, Musk, Green Tea Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, Pinyon Pine, Musk
Woodshop & Old Friends.
Cedar, Sandalwood, Rosewood, Pinyon Pine, Tobacco Absolute, Red Wine, Jasmine Absolute, Canadian Fir Needle, Spruce, Agarwood, Cannabis, Labdanum, Wood Smoke
Charmlee Wilderness Park, Malibu; on the first day of Spring.
Sea Salt, Driftwood, Wild Oaks, Orange Groves, Bay Laurel, Sandalwood, Cypress, White Sage, Eucalyptus Leaf, Vetiver, Seaweed, Smoke, Mountain Grasses, Wildflowers, Bee Pollen, Vineyard Accord
Rare & Precious Woods.
Cedar, Spices, Orris, Amber, Papyrus, Angelica Root, Peru Balsam, Benzoin, Dewy Forest Floor Accord, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Agarwood, Oakmoss Absolute, Sweet Myrrh
Rare & Precious Woods.
Cedarwood, Spices, Orris, Cypress Leaf, Angelica Root, Opopanax, Amber, Massoia Wood, Pinyon Pine, Agarwood, Benzoin Absolute & Sandalwood